body background

7 Best Tips to Install a Batting Cage + 5 DON’T DO’s…

Indoor Batting Cage Installation Kits

How do you build an indoor batting cage? What hardware do I need? We get this question DAILY at Practice Sports. And we’re here to help you identify the best installation method for your needs.

Batting Cage Installation at University of Nebraska Performance Lab

Batting Cage Installation at University of Nebraska Performance Lab

We’ve installed batting cages for over 15 years, so understand the nuances for what makes a high quality netting installation. After you read this article you’ll be more educated than the majority of batting cage facility owners.

So let’s get started… 

For indoor batting cages, here’s an easy bullet-point answer…

What you SHOULD DO:

  • Run galvanized cable from wall to wall (or beam to beam). Typically 1/4″ will work.
  • Use cables every 6-8 ft across the width of your cage.
  • Use turn-buckles to tension / tighten the cable lines.
  • Use carabiner snaps to connect your net to the cables. Space these every 1-3 ft — the closer together, the better the appearance.
  • Use cable clamps to secure the cable loops on the ends.
  • Use anchor plates to proper distribute the tension
  • Use pulley roller wheels to make sliding your net easier.
Practice Sports Attachment Bracket - Done Right

Practice Sports Attachment Bracket – Done Right


  • DO NOT — Use vinyl coated cable — the friction from the carabiner snaps will wear the coating, creating an uneven surface and sliding will cease to happen.
  • DO NOT —  Only drop vertical support cables instead of running lengthwise cables. This will create huge PEAKS & VALLEYS in your ceiling, inhibiting usage of the cage. Plus it will look terrible. If you MUST only support the netting from above, space your drops every 3-5 ft, and expect to add more here & there as needed to “pick up” the netting. Also expect this to be a massive PAIN.
  • DO NOT — Use single eye-bolts as your anchor points (unless running a short distance of less than 30 ft), and / or welding the eye-bolts into a beam or wall. You need to put a high amount of “heat” / tension on your lines to properly support them. Expect about 10 lbs per linear foot, per cable. So if you are spanning 80 ft, you will need 800 lbs of tension on EACH line. If you’re running 3 lines to support a single lane net, this equates to 2,400 lbs of tension. Divide that by 2 walls, and you will have 1,200 lbs on each wall. This is FAR TOO MUCH tension for a single eye-bolt into a block or stud.
  • DO NOT — Anchor into a single wall stud, and especially DO NOT anchor into dry-wall. You will pull these anchors out in a heartbeat.
  • DO NOT — Connect your carabiner snaps directly to the mesh of the netting. ONLY connect to the thick ropes installed on the top of the netting. If you need to attach at a point where there isn’t a rope, BUY SOME MORE ROPE and weave it into your mesh.
Slotted Unistrut - aka Walmart Quality Header

Slotted Unistrut – aka Walmart Quality Header


  • It’s easier to attach your carabiners / snaps when the netting is on the ground. Spread out the netting, and divide up your snaps. Attach them evenly to the ROPES on your ceiling. Lift and clip. Start in a corner and work across or down one side.
  • Don’t begin with maximum tension in your cables. Start by tensioning your turnbuckles a medium amount. This makes clipping up to the cables easier. After the netting is up, go back & fully tighten the turnbuckles. Using a screw-driver makes this process easy.
  • When tightening the turnbuckles, don’t allow the JAW end connected to the cable to twist. Hold this in place with your hand, and ONLY TURN the body of the TB. Otherwise this will twist your cable, which you DON’T WANT. Eventually the cable will UN-TWIST and cause your turnbuckle to loosen quickly, which could be dangerous during installation.
  • If you don’t have a viable wall for anchoring, you can mount ceiling brackets, or install floor poles. We custom build brackets if needed.


And for those who want to make installation even easier, and prevent 10 TRIPS to the hardware store, we sell PRE-PACKAGED installation kits — ready to ship. We thought of everything, and our cage kits are the most TURN-KEY on the market. Save the hassle of PIECE-MEALING and do it right the first time. We’re experts in the field of batting cage installation, and have all of the best hardware to make the process easier.

We hope this helps! Don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions before, during, or after installation.

Varsity Shop

This entry was posted in DIY / FAQ, How-To Install, Install Indoor Batting Cage and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post. Post a comment or leave a trackback: Trackback URL.


  1. Keith Brooks
    Posted December 17, 2016 at 2:40 pm | Permalink

    I am trying to mount 2 lines at 20 foot off the floor (top of cage & curtain line). The ceiling truss is 27 foot up, so I need to drop 7 foot with some type of a header. Currently using a unistrut, but as you mentioned above, not ideal. Any thoughts?

    • Posted December 21, 2016 at 12:12 pm | Permalink

      Hi Keith,
      Thanks for your inquiry. Dropping a header down 7 ft is not possible without serious engineering. Is there a reason why you don’t want to mount your lines higher, and use drop lines like in our CurtainCage Line Lift Kits?

      Chad Schneider | Operations Director

      Practice Sports, Inc. | 14706 Giles Rd. Omaha, NE 68138
      800.877.6787 x801 | 402.592.2000 | Fax: 800.577.3046 |

  2. Ernest N Rogers Sr
    Posted December 13, 2017 at 2:21 pm | Permalink

    I bought my net through someone else. Then I stumbled on y our site. I am putting 6 poles on the ground 2 1/2″ steel commercial poles. 3 at one end 3 at the other. I have a 70x12x12 cage. I am looking at running cables just like you describe. What kit would you recommend ?

    • Posted January 12, 2018 at 3:13 pm | Permalink

      Hi Ernest,
      Thanks for posting about your poles. We don’t have a standard kit for that type of setup of poles but I can certainly email a quote for the necessary hardware. Just a few questions, what is the measurement between the poles running parallel to the length of the net? And did you need the net to slide on the cable lines setup between the poles? Let me know if you have any other questions.

      Cory Schneider

  3. Humberto Figueroa
    Posted January 9, 2018 at 5:41 pm | Permalink

    I want to installed a 70x12x12 tunnel net outdoors in parking lot area. The area is 100×24 it is surrounded by gate and fencing on three sides. On one side 24′ there is 11′ gate, 100′ side the gate continues at 11′ height and on next side is 24′ at 11’fencing.
    I wanted to run three 100′ wire cables lengthwise and attach them with turnbuckles and carabiners. But I’m concerned that the length will cause wire sagging and too much tension on gate and fence

    • Posted January 12, 2018 at 3:24 pm | Permalink

      Hi Humberto,
      Thank you for contacting us about your setup. There will be a lot of tension put on the cable lines so you may want to reinforce the poles to offset the inward pressure created by the cable lines. We use kickers on our nCage Collegiate frame in the same capacity. You can view the frame here to give you an idea:

      Please send pictures or a sketch of the layout to and we can help with the setup.

      Thanks again,
      Cory Schneider

  4. Ben
    Posted January 17, 2018 at 9:10 pm | Permalink

    I am going to put a 12x12x45 foot cage in a building with a 16 foot ceiling. What is the best way to drop from the cables down to the net? Is parachute cord ok? The cage will be pulled to one side so it is out of the way when not in use. Thanks!

    • Posted January 18, 2018 at 1:48 pm | Permalink

      Hi Ben,
      Thanks for contacting us. We use steel cables as drop lines coming down from horizontal cables connecting to the net. Hope this helps but let us know if you have any other questions.

      Cory Schneider

  5. Jason Tharp
    Posted January 29, 2018 at 10:13 am | Permalink

    I have an 80 x 40 ft concrete pad, with an A- Frame metal roof. My plan is to run six 35 x 10 x 10 nets across the 40 ft span. I’m going to attach the cables to the purlins that are 10 ft high. I’m just curious if it’ll be able to withstand the tension.

    • Posted January 30, 2018 at 10:47 am | Permalink

      Hi Jason,
      Thanks for reaching out. Purlins aren’t typically designed to handle lateral load – they are intended simply to support the roof structure, and can also be used for some incidental collateral load when proper bracing is used. You would need to consult with your builder to be sure, but you could likely span a steel tube between 2 of the purlins to create an adequate attachment point. If you can anchor into your wall girts that would be even better, and you can use a system like our batting cage wall headers shown here:

      Do you need a quote for the netting & hardware?

      Please let me know if you have any other questions.

      Chad Schneider | Operations Director

      Practice Sports, Inc. | 14706 Giles Rd. Omaha, NE 68138
      800.877.6787 x801 | 402.592.2000 | Fax: 800.577.3046 |

  6. tony g
    Posted April 29, 2018 at 6:23 am | Permalink

    What is the minimum recommended clearance between the net and side poles or the bottom of the trusses in an outdoor pole barn type building?

    I thought I had read up to 2 ft is recommended, but other places say 1 ft.

    • Posted April 30, 2018 at 9:56 am | Permalink

      Hi Tony,
      There are a few different factors that will determine the recommended space. First, the age(s) of the batter’s using the cage. Older kids hit and throw harder so the net will move out further. The second is the netting material. With a thicker gauge net, #42 or #60, the net will move out less. Having 2′ of space would be ideal but some people don’t have that extra space to work with especially in the ceiling height. We typically recommend using 1′ of space and if you find you’re having issues, trying to pad the trusses or use a lighting cage to protect overhead lighting. Please let me know if you have any other questions.


      Cory Schneider | Sales Manager

  7. Posted October 26, 2018 at 4:51 pm | Permalink

    Are you able to install the the cables with one end into a beam and the other into a cinder block wall?

    • Posted October 29, 2018 at 9:09 am | Permalink

      Hi Nick,
      Yes, that is possible. The cable line just has to be horizontal so it doesn’t matter what type of structure it’s anchored into.


  8. Kenny Balderson
    Posted October 30, 2018 at 8:38 am | Permalink

    I want to put up a cage in the my basement, and am really unsure of the what type of mount to use. Its a hollow cinderblock basement with available cage area of 48ft long 20ft wide 11ft high ceiling. I am afraid that the tension will pull through the block, so I thought about trying to mount from the ceiling. Can you please advise the best approach ceiling/block and the kit/pieces I would need to accomplish it.

    • Posted November 16, 2018 at 2:53 pm | Permalink

      Hi Kenny,
      Going into a hollow cinderblock wall, you’ll want to use an expanding lag, also known as a shield lag. The lags we sell are intended to anchor our wall plates to the wall. For your 48’L net, you can use the 5″ x 5″ wall plate. Please let us know if you have any other questions.


      Cory Schneider

      • Todd
        Posted January 17, 2019 at 7:55 pm | Permalink

        How much should the side netting have on the ground for billow?
        Ie if its 12 ft high net should the cables be at 11 ft or what dimension?

        • Posted January 18, 2019 at 11:18 am | Permalink

          Hi Todd,
          The recommendation is 8″ to 1′ of sag. So with a 12’H net the ceiling will be positioned around 11’4″ to 11’H.


  9. Alex
    Posted January 4, 2019 at 11:22 pm | Permalink

    Hi there! Putting up a batting cage in my backyard using 10 foot poles I got from Lowes. Gonna be 12x14x50.
    What the best way to hold the up the net? Are heavy duty cable ties the way to go? Do I use carbiner clips? What’s the very best way to hold up the cage net? Thanks so much!

    • Posted January 18, 2019 at 11:28 am | Permalink

      Hi Alex,
      Cable lines are the best option. We have a hardware kit we sell that is compatible with 1-5/8″, 1-7/8″, & 2-3/8″ diameter poles:
      FlexCages – Deluxe Hardware / Cable Kit for 2 to 5 Section In-Ground Frame

      Along with the cable lines, the net attaches to the cables using the carabiner clips. There’s a turnbuckle for each cable line to control tension and the cables attach to the posts using fence collars or collar clamps.


  10. Rigel O'dare
    Posted April 3, 2019 at 7:01 pm | Permalink

    I’ve been asked to fix an outdoor batting cage that wasn’t set up right the first time. The frame is comprised of fourteen poles total, as well as the center being connected to a tree. The whole thing is sagging however, and I’ve been given some carbiner clips to work with, but I don’t know if that’ll do the job well enough. Could you offer me any advice please?

    • Posted April 4, 2019 at 9:36 am | Permalink

      Hi Rigel,
      It would probably be best if you could send a picture of the setup. Since there’s so much variation in the type of setup, being able to view the exact pole location & how it’s currently hanging is the best option. Please send pics to and we’ll be able to assist.


  11. Jon
    Posted April 9, 2019 at 11:33 am | Permalink


    I’m going to hang a 14 ft wide batting cage in my shed. My posted are 8 feet apart on center. Can I run the cables on each of those posts? The drop lines will be about 5 ft down.

    • Posted April 9, 2019 at 1:57 pm | Permalink

      Hi Jon,
      It would be ideal to make your net 16’W, which would be a custom net. Since you’re using drop lines you can still go with a 14’W net but you’ll need to make you drop lines a little bit longer on the outside cables. This is because those drop lines won’t be hanging straight vertical, like on the middle cable line, since the overhead cable lines won’t be directly in line with the connection point on the net hanging below. If you’re going with a 12’H net with 5′ drop lines, you’ll want to keep around 1′ of net sag on the ground so the ceiling of the net will actually hang around 11’H. That means with 5′ drop lines that will put your horizontal overhead cable lines at 16’H. But again on the outside drop cables you’ll want to add a few inches.

  12. Posted June 19, 2019 at 6:41 pm | Permalink

    What’s your recommended distance between roller clips/wheel clips?

    • Posted June 24, 2019 at 1:55 pm | Permalink

      Hi Dan,
      Every foot or two feet is fine. If you have a budget the two foot really cuts down on the cost.


  13. Mark
    Posted June 29, 2019 at 3:51 pm | Permalink

    We are building an outdoor cage with dimensions 12x15x55 with 3 ten foot poles on either end.
    Do we need support in the middle or is running a cable wire from end to sufficient?

    • Posted July 1, 2019 at 12:18 pm | Permalink

      Hi Mark,
      You just need (3) cable lines running parallel to the length of your tunnel. I think that’s the setup you described.


  14. Keith
    Posted August 16, 2019 at 1:38 pm | Permalink

    Hi guys,
    I’m in a space that I can’t get horizontal lines across and anchor points are a little limited. Thinking I’ll frame out a cage with steel tubing and suspend from ceiling. Similar to the above photo of the cage in the gym. Any drawbacks to this method? The cages are 14′ high. Does the tubing create a lot of deflection? Do you have a suggestion for a better method? I thought about the drop down header, but thought the frame would be cleaner and let drop lines. Thanks for your time.

    • Posted August 16, 2019 at 4:43 pm | Permalink

      Hi Keith,
      So creating your own custom pole bracket would be fine. You will most likely need to run a kicker cable off the backside of those brackets to offset the inward pressure from the tension on the horizontal cable lines. You can see in those pics that there’s a cable line coming off the back. That’s the kicker cable. This will also help to stabilize the drop down pole since the longer that pole has to drop, the more pressure will be put on the base connected to the ceiling. Let us know if you have any other questions.


  15. Sean
    Posted September 12, 2019 at 1:43 am | Permalink

    I am building a cage 35x12x12. I was going with 3 six inch round poles for left right center. Poles will be in concrete 2 foot deep. I have read that I need center support for any cable distance over 20 ft. Is this correct? Or will the poles with the cable be sufficient to support the weight? Also, what 35 foot net do you recommend for the outdoor sun in Tucson, Az.

    • Posted September 12, 2019 at 9:40 am | Permalink

      Hi Sean,
      If I understand this correctly, you’re installing (3) sets of poles on each end about 36′ to 37′ apart? If that’s the case you don’t need any center support but you need to use a thick enough pole that won’t bend or deflect under cable tension. You can run (3) cable lines parallel to the length, similar to this setup:
      nCage – 55’L Collegiate Batting Cage Frame – 3.5″ Pipe

      The main difference being you won’t be using cross-members. As you can see, we use a 3.5″ dimaeter pole for that setup. If you’re using a thinner diameter pole you probabaly don’t want to put full tension on the cables which is controlled by the turnbuckle on each cable line. The down side is you’ll have more net sag since any sag in the cables will be reflected on the net. For spacing I’d recommend 36′ to 37′ apart on the length with the outside poles set exactly at 12’W and the middle post at the 6’W mark (directly in the middle). You can also look at that frame listing to see the hardware components we use. If you need to purchase any of those parts, we sell those as stand alone items and they ship free.

      Regarding the netting, a #36 Nylon or #42 Nylon would be recommended. All the nets are standard with a UV treatment which definitely helps with deterioration from the sun. You can get pricing using this link to our net calculator:
      Net Calculator

      Let us know if you have any other questions or if you’d like a quote sent.

      Thanks again,

  16. Ron Hodgkins
    Posted September 17, 2019 at 4:46 pm | Permalink

    How do you lift up the sides of a outside batting cage.
    Need to cut grass without taking net down or damaging net.

    • Posted September 18, 2019 at 3:17 pm | Permalink

      Hi Ron,
      Your best option is to just clip snap-hooks or carabiners to the bottom of the net and just fold it up and connect to the vertical side walls of the netting. There really isn’t a standard way but that seems to be the best option.


  17. scott clark
    Posted October 7, 2019 at 12:29 pm | Permalink

    I have a open 90 feet by 60 feet area that we are about to build a structure over to have 6 or 7 individual cages. Measurements 10 or 12 feet wide by 35 or 55 feet. We are more then likely going to buy a pre made steel structure kit. That will have no walls and basically just be a cover. Will this type of structure support us to attach cages to or do we need to reinforce the areas before we attach?

    • Posted October 7, 2019 at 1:06 pm | Permalink

      Hi Scott,
      Unfortunately we have no way of effectively saying if your building will support that type of setup. You will need to consult a structural engineer to ensure your building can take that lateral load created by the cable line tension.


  18. Bernard Yaged
    Posted January 23, 2020 at 1:21 pm | Permalink

    I work for a sports business and we want to put 4 batting cages (about 10x10x50) inside an Arizon air bubble. The batting cage would have to be self-supporting. We do not have steel beams on the roof or wall, so our situation is somewhat different than what I saw on the website.

    The bubbles are mainly used for kids soccer. We would take an area of about 25 x 100 feet at one end of the bubble for the four batting cages.

    We also need to be able to take them down for special soccer activities.

    What can you recommend? Thanks.

    • Posted January 23, 2020 at 5:42 pm | Permalink

      Hi Bernard,
      We do have some temporary or portable batting cage systems. We have some ProCage above ground frame systems and inflatable batting cages. The ProCage are a thinner trapezoid frame and are ideal for temporary use. The inflatable cages are more versatile but are much more expensive. These are similar to the inflatable bounce houses. Please let me know if you’d like pricing on either of these options.

      Cory Schneider

  19. James
    Posted January 29, 2020 at 10:19 pm | Permalink

    I am doing an indoor batting cage in a pole barn.
    70x12x12 for the size of the cage.
    Doing a 3 suspended line layout.
    Will have poles (of the barn) spaced six feet apart for anchors.
    What is the best way to attach the line to the wood posts? I see you said don’t use a single eye bolt.
    (I have 1/4 galvanized wire, turnbuckles, and wire clamps)

    • Posted January 30, 2020 at 11:51 am | Permalink

      Hi James,
      We use wall plates for the anchors. This disperses the pressure off a single anchor point, like with an eye-bolt, since there’s (4) connection points on the wall plates. You can view the plate here:
      FlexPlate – 5″ x 5″ Steel Wall Anchor Plate w/single Terminal Point

      Cory Schneider

      • James
        Posted January 30, 2020 at 7:34 pm | Permalink

        So one of those screwed into the poles on each side should support the 70 foot distance fine?

        • James
          Posted January 30, 2020 at 7:35 pm | Permalink

          Do you guys do any deals for buying 6 of them?

          • Posted January 31, 2020 at 12:19 pm | Permalink

            Hi James,
            If you’re asking about just wall plates, unfortunately we don’t offer a discount.

            Cory Schneider

        • Posted January 31, 2020 at 12:12 pm | Permalink

          Hi James,
          So if you’re using a pole, the wall plate isn’t the best option as you need a flat surface to place those on. If you have a round pole, or a square pole that’s not big enough, those plates won’t work.

          Cory Schneider

          • James
            Posted February 1, 2020 at 7:44 pm | Permalink

            They are 6×6 posts, so then would this 5 inch wall plate be what you would suggest?

            Do you all allow returns if it doesn’t work once we start to set it up?

          • Posted February 3, 2020 at 12:59 pm | Permalink

            Hi James,
            That is correct. The 5″ x 5″ wall plates should fit on that 6″ x 6″ square post. We do allow returns, you just have to pay for the return shipping and the refund is issued upon the return inspection.


Post a Comment

Your email is never published nor shared. Required fields are marked *


You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>