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7 Best Tips to Install a Batting Cage + 5 DON’T DO’s…

Indoor Batting Cage Installation Kits

How do you build an indoor batting cage? What hardware do I need? We get this question DAILY at Practice Sports. And we’re here to help you identify the best installation method for your needs.

Batting Cage Installation at University of Nebraska Performance Lab

Batting Cage Installation at University of Nebraska Performance Lab

We’ve installed batting cages for over 15 years, so understand the nuances for what makes a high quality netting installation. After you read this article you’ll be more educated than the majority of batting cage facility owners.

So let’s get started… 

For indoor batting cages, here’s an easy bullet-point answer…

What you SHOULD DO:

  • Run galvanized cable from wall to wall (or beam to beam). Typically 1/4″ will work.
  • Use cables every 6-8 ft across the width of your cage.
  • Use turn-buckles to tension / tighten the cable lines.
  • Use carabiner snaps to connect your net to the cables. Space these every 1-3 ft — the closer together, the better the appearance.
  • Use cable clamps to secure the cable loops on the ends.
  • Use anchor plates to proper distribute the tension
  • Use pulley roller wheels to make sliding your net easier.
Practice Sports Attachment Bracket - Done Right

Practice Sports Attachment Bracket – Done Right


  • DO NOT — Use vinyl coated cable — the friction from the carabiner snaps will wear the coating, creating an uneven surface and sliding will cease to happen.
  • DO NOT —  Only drop vertical support cables instead of running lengthwise cables. This will create huge PEAKS & VALLEYS in your ceiling, inhibiting usage of the cage. Plus it will look terrible. If you MUST only support the netting from above, space your drops every 3-5 ft, and expect to add more here & there as needed to “pick up” the netting. Also expect this to be a massive PAIN.
  • DO NOT — Use single eye-bolts as your anchor points (unless running a short distance of less than 30 ft), and / or welding the eye-bolts into a beam or wall. You need to put a high amount of “heat” / tension on your lines to properly support them. Expect about 10 lbs per linear foot, per cable. So if you are spanning 80 ft, you will need 800 lbs of tension on EACH line. If you’re running 3 lines to support a single lane net, this equates to 2,400 lbs of tension. Divide that by 2 walls, and you will have 1,200 lbs on each wall. This is FAR TOO MUCH tension for a single eye-bolt into a block or stud.
  • DO NOT — Anchor into a single wall stud, and especially DO NOT anchor into dry-wall. You will pull these anchors out in a heartbeat.
  • DO NOT — Connect your carabiner snaps directly to the mesh of the netting. ONLY connect to the thick ropes installed on the top of the netting. If you need to attach at a point where there isn’t a rope, BUY SOME MORE ROPE and weave it into your mesh.
Slotted Unistrut - aka Walmart Quality Header

Slotted Unistrut – aka Walmart Quality Header


  • It’s easier to attach your carabiners / snaps when the netting is on the ground. Spread out the netting, and divide up your snaps. Attach them evenly to the ROPES on your ceiling. Lift and clip. Start in a corner and work across or down one side.
  • Don’t begin with maximum tension in your cables. Start by tensioning your turnbuckles a medium amount. This makes clipping up to the cables easier. After the netting is up, go back & fully tighten the turnbuckles. Using a screw-driver makes this process easy.
  • When tightening the turnbuckles, don’t allow the JAW end connected to the cable to twist. Hold this in place with your hand, and ONLY TURN the body of the TB. Otherwise this will twist your cable, which you DON’T WANT. Eventually the cable will UN-TWIST and cause your turnbuckle to loosen quickly, which could be dangerous during installation.
  • If you don’t have a viable wall for anchoring, you can mount ceiling brackets, or install floor poles. We custom build brackets if needed.


And for those who want to make installation even easier, and prevent 10 TRIPS to the hardware store, we sell PRE-PACKAGED installation kits — ready to ship. We thought of everything, and our cage kits are the most TURN-KEY on the market. Save the hassle of PIECE-MEALING and do it right the first time. We’re experts in the field of batting cage installation, and have all of the best hardware to make the process easier.

We hope this helps! Don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions before, during, or after installation.

Varsity Shop

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  1. Keith Brooks
    Posted December 17, 2016 at 2:40 pm | Permalink

    I am trying to mount 2 lines at 20 foot off the floor (top of cage & curtain line). The ceiling truss is 27 foot up, so I need to drop 7 foot with some type of a header. Currently using a unistrut, but as you mentioned above, not ideal. Any thoughts?

    • Posted December 21, 2016 at 12:12 pm | Permalink

      Hi Keith,
      Thanks for your inquiry. Dropping a header down 7 ft is not possible without serious engineering. Is there a reason why you don’t want to mount your lines higher, and use drop lines like in our CurtainCage Line Lift Kits?

      Chad Schneider | Operations Director

      Practice Sports, Inc. | 14706 Giles Rd. Omaha, NE 68138
      800.877.6787 x801 | 402.592.2000 | Fax: 800.577.3046 |

  2. Ernest N Rogers Sr
    Posted December 13, 2017 at 2:21 pm | Permalink

    I bought my net through someone else. Then I stumbled on y our site. I am putting 6 poles on the ground 2 1/2″ steel commercial poles. 3 at one end 3 at the other. I have a 70x12x12 cage. I am looking at running cables just like you describe. What kit would you recommend ?

    • Posted January 12, 2018 at 3:13 pm | Permalink

      Hi Ernest,
      Thanks for posting about your poles. We don’t have a standard kit for that type of setup of poles but I can certainly email a quote for the necessary hardware. Just a few questions, what is the measurement between the poles running parallel to the length of the net? And did you need the net to slide on the cable lines setup between the poles? Let me know if you have any other questions.

      Cory Schneider

  3. Humberto Figueroa
    Posted January 9, 2018 at 5:41 pm | Permalink

    I want to installed a 70x12x12 tunnel net outdoors in parking lot area. The area is 100×24 it is surrounded by gate and fencing on three sides. On one side 24′ there is 11′ gate, 100′ side the gate continues at 11′ height and on next side is 24′ at 11’fencing.
    I wanted to run three 100′ wire cables lengthwise and attach them with turnbuckles and carabiners. But I’m concerned that the length will cause wire sagging and too much tension on gate and fence

    • Posted January 12, 2018 at 3:24 pm | Permalink

      Hi Humberto,
      Thank you for contacting us about your setup. There will be a lot of tension put on the cable lines so you may want to reinforce the poles to offset the inward pressure created by the cable lines. We use kickers on our nCage Collegiate frame in the same capacity. You can view the frame here to give you an idea:

      Please send pictures or a sketch of the layout to and we can help with the setup.

      Thanks again,
      Cory Schneider

  4. Ben
    Posted January 17, 2018 at 9:10 pm | Permalink

    I am going to put a 12x12x45 foot cage in a building with a 16 foot ceiling. What is the best way to drop from the cables down to the net? Is parachute cord ok? The cage will be pulled to one side so it is out of the way when not in use. Thanks!

    • Posted January 18, 2018 at 1:48 pm | Permalink

      Hi Ben,
      Thanks for contacting us. We use steel cables as drop lines coming down from horizontal cables connecting to the net. Hope this helps but let us know if you have any other questions.

      Cory Schneider

  5. Jason Tharp
    Posted January 29, 2018 at 10:13 am | Permalink

    I have an 80 x 40 ft concrete pad, with an A- Frame metal roof. My plan is to run six 35 x 10 x 10 nets across the 40 ft span. I’m going to attach the cables to the purlins that are 10 ft high. I’m just curious if it’ll be able to withstand the tension.

    • Posted January 30, 2018 at 10:47 am | Permalink

      Hi Jason,
      Thanks for reaching out. Purlins aren’t typically designed to handle lateral load – they are intended simply to support the roof structure, and can also be used for some incidental collateral load when proper bracing is used. You would need to consult with your builder to be sure, but you could likely span a steel tube between 2 of the purlins to create an adequate attachment point. If you can anchor into your wall girts that would be even better, and you can use a system like our batting cage wall headers shown here:

      Do you need a quote for the netting & hardware?

      Please let me know if you have any other questions.

      Chad Schneider | Operations Director

      Practice Sports, Inc. | 14706 Giles Rd. Omaha, NE 68138
      800.877.6787 x801 | 402.592.2000 | Fax: 800.577.3046 |

  6. tony g
    Posted April 29, 2018 at 6:23 am | Permalink

    What is the minimum recommended clearance between the net and side poles or the bottom of the trusses in an outdoor pole barn type building?

    I thought I had read up to 2 ft is recommended, but other places say 1 ft.

    • Posted April 30, 2018 at 9:56 am | Permalink

      Hi Tony,
      There are a few different factors that will determine the recommended space. First, the age(s) of the batter’s using the cage. Older kids hit and throw harder so the net will move out further. The second is the netting material. With a thicker gauge net, #42 or #60, the net will move out less. Having 2′ of space would be ideal but some people don’t have that extra space to work with especially in the ceiling height. We typically recommend using 1′ of space and if you find you’re having issues, trying to pad the trusses or use a lighting cage to protect overhead lighting. Please let me know if you have any other questions.


      Cory Schneider | Sales Manager

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