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7 Best Tips to Install a Batting Cage + 5 DON’T DO’s…

Indoor Batting Cage Installation Kits

How do you build an indoor batting cage? What hardware do I need? We get this question DAILY at Practice Sports. And we’re here to help you identify the best installation method for your needs.

Batting Cage Installation at University of Nebraska Performance Lab

Batting Cage Installation at University of Nebraska Performance Lab

We’ve installed batting cages for over 15 years, so understand the nuances for what makes a high quality netting installation. After you read this article you’ll be more educated than the majority of batting cage facility owners.

So let’s get started… 

For indoor batting cages, here’s an easy bullet-point answer…

What you SHOULD DO:

  • Run galvanized cable from wall to wall (or beam to beam). Typically 1/4″ will work.
  • Use cables every 6-8 ft across the width of your cage.
  • Use turn-buckles to tension / tighten the cable lines.
  • Use carabiner snaps to connect your net to the cables. Space these every 1-3 ft — the closer together, the better the appearance.
  • Use cable clamps to secure the cable loops on the ends.
  • Use anchor plates to proper distribute the tension
  • Use pulley roller wheels to make sliding your net easier.
Practice Sports Attachment Bracket - Done Right

Practice Sports Attachment Bracket – Done Right

What you SHOULD NEVER DO:

  • DO NOT — Use vinyl coated cable — the friction from the carabiner snaps will wear the coating, creating an uneven surface and sliding will cease to happen.
  • DO NOT —  Only drop vertical support cables instead of running lengthwise cables. This will create huge PEAKS & VALLEYS in your ceiling, inhibiting usage of the cage. Plus it will look terrible. If you MUST only support the netting from above, space your drops every 3-5 ft, and expect to add more here & there as needed to “pick up” the netting. Also expect this to be a massive PAIN.
  • DO NOT — Use single eye-bolts as your anchor points (unless running a short distance of less than 30 ft), and / or welding the eye-bolts into a beam or wall. You need to put a high amount of “heat” / tension on your lines to properly support them. Expect about 10 lbs per linear foot, per cable. So if you are spanning 80 ft, you will need 800 lbs of tension on EACH line. If you’re running 3 lines to support a single lane net, this equates to 2,400 lbs of tension. Divide that by 2 walls, and you will have 1,200 lbs on each wall. This is FAR TOO MUCH tension for a single eye-bolt into a block or stud.
  • DO NOT — Anchor into a single wall stud, and especially DO NOT anchor into dry-wall. You will pull these anchors out in a heartbeat.
  • DO NOT — Connect your carabiner snaps directly to the mesh of the netting. ONLY connect to the thick ropes installed on the top of the netting. If you need to attach at a point where there isn’t a rope, BUY SOME MORE ROPE and weave it into your mesh.
Slotted Unistrut - aka Walmart Quality Header

Slotted Unistrut – aka Walmart Quality Header

TIPS & TRICKS:

  • It’s easier to attach your carabiners / snaps when the netting is on the ground. Spread out the netting, and divide up your snaps. Attach them evenly to the ROPES on your ceiling. Lift and clip. Start in a corner and work across or down one side.
  • Don’t begin with maximum tension in your cables. Start by tensioning your turnbuckles a medium amount. This makes clipping up to the cables easier. After the netting is up, go back & fully tighten the turnbuckles. Using a screw-driver makes this process easy.
  • When tightening the turnbuckles, don’t allow the JAW end connected to the cable to twist. Hold this in place with your hand, and ONLY TURN the body of the TB. Otherwise this will twist your cable, which you DON’T WANT. Eventually the cable will UN-TWIST and cause your turnbuckle to loosen quickly, which could be dangerous during installation.
  • If you don’t have a viable wall for anchoring, you can mount ceiling brackets, or install floor poles. We custom build brackets if needed.

Pottstown

And for those who want to make installation even easier, and prevent 10 TRIPS to the hardware store, we sell PRE-PACKAGED installation kits — ready to ship. We thought of everything, and our cage kits are the most TURN-KEY on the market. Save the hassle of PIECE-MEALING and do it right the first time. We’re experts in the field of batting cage installation, and have all of the best hardware to make the process easier.

We hope this helps! Don’t hesitate to contact us with any questions before, during, or after installation.

Varsity Shop

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2 Comments

  1. Keith Brooks
    Posted December 17, 2016 at 2:40 pm | Permalink

    I am trying to mount 2 lines at 20 foot off the floor (top of cage & curtain line). The ceiling truss is 27 foot up, so I need to drop 7 foot with some type of a header. Currently using a unistrut, but as you mentioned above, not ideal. Any thoughts?

    • Posted December 21, 2016 at 12:12 pm | Permalink

      Hi Keith,
      Thanks for your inquiry. Dropping a header down 7 ft is not possible without serious engineering. Is there a reason why you don’t want to mount your lines higher, and use drop lines like in our CurtainCage Line Lift Kits?

      Chad Schneider | Operations Director

      Practice Sports, Inc. | 14706 Giles Rd. Omaha, NE 68138
      800.877.6787 x801 | 402.592.2000 | Fax: 800.577.3046
      chad@practicesports.com | practicesports.com

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