This is a general guide that will help you determine what parts are necessary and the quantities needed of each part. The cable line setup will need an anchor point to the wall (either a wall plate or an eye-bolt of shorter distances). The cable line will need to have loops on each end to connect to the anchor point or to the turnbuckle which connects to the anchor point. The turnbuckle is used to control the tension on the cable line. With distances longer than 80′ and with heavier nets that use a thicker gauge of netting, you’ll want to use turnbuckles on both sides of the cable lines. The amount of sag in the cable lines will also cause the net the sag. So the tighter you can get the cable lines the less sag you’ll have in the netting. Just keep in mind that the more tension put on the cable lines, the more pressure will be put on the anchor points into the walls.
Cable clamps will be needed to create the loops on the ends of the cable lines. Two will be needed on each end, 1 to create the loops and 1 to secure the remaining cable line so it doesn’t just hang loose. The net will be connected to the cable lines with snap-hooks or carabiners. If the net will need to slide frequently on the cable lines, roller wheels or pulleys are recommended. Without the pulleys, grooves will eventually form in the snap-hooks making it very difficult to slide the netting on the cables.
The height of the cable lines will be based on the height of the batting cage. Since you want to keep at least 8″ to 1′ of sag on the ground, you’ll need to adjust the cable line height accordingly. With a 12′H net you’ll want the cable lines to hang at a max height of 11’4″. This will give you the minimum recommended sag of 8″. The sag on the ground will help prevent balls from going out under the netting.
The wall plates will need to use lags to anchor into the walls. Typical structures are made of wood, concrete, poured concrete or cinder block. Each of these options use a different type of lag to secure the plates.